Thursday, November 17, 2011

The Perfect Turkey

A neighbor asked me to teach her ceramics students how to cook a turkey. I asked her why turkey? Her students were all from Japan and they wanted to prepare an American Thanksgiving dinner for their families. I understood this, but, must admit, I did not want to teach a turkey cooking class. Let’s be honest, working with the big bird isn’t a graceful act. It’s not like I wanted an audience to watch me struggle to hoist a turkey out of its tight plastic wrap. That’s right, no farm-fresh bird in this house. I use the frozen, buy-one-get-one-free birds. And, cleaning the fowl is anything but glamorous. I work with the giblets in secrecy so my son won’t be repulsed. Now, I was asked to perform my ugly bird operation in front of an audience? Oh, I don’t think so.

You know if all of the parameters aren’t right, you end up with a big hot mess. Turkey can dry out faster than I can blink. If I had to perform in front of an audience then I needed the perfect turkey recipe, and a way to ensure that I could avoid the dreaded dry-as-toast results that do happen to real folks now and then.

To my delight, I found a fool-proof method that makes roasting a turkey easy as pie. The test kitchen at Williams-Sonoma came up with a beautiful buttermilk-brined turkey recipe that produces a delicious and moist turkey every time. Seriously!

I use this recipe in my home and it wows my family and friends. I bought the brine and the brining bags from Williams-Sonoma, which made preparing the turkey a snap. I plan ahead and clean out a shelf in my refrigerator. I use the month of November to toss out all of the old condiments, jams, and jellies in the back of my icebox. The empty shelf is reserved for the thawing of my turkey and the brining. I buy my brine and brining bags early because they do run out. I have asked for permission to run Williams-Sonoma’s recipe and they said yes. So without further delay here it is!

Buttermilk Brined Turkey

1½ cups turkey brine
1 quart water
4 quarts buttermilk
1 fresh turkey, 16 to 18 pounds, neck, heart and gizzard removed (reserved)
4 Tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

In a small saucepan over high heat, combine the turkey brine and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring often, until the brine dissolves, 5 to 10 minutes. Let the brine mixture cool to room temperature. In a large pot, stir together the brine mixture and buttermilk.

Rinse the turkey inside and out with cold water and place in a large brining bag. Carefully pour the buttermilk brine mixture into the bag. Seal the bag, pressing out the air, and place in a large stockpot or other container large enough to hold the turkey. Refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours, turning occasionally.

Remove the turkey from the brine; discard the brine. Rinse the turkey inside and out with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Trim off and discard the excess fat. Place the turkey, breast side up, on a rack in a large roasting pan. Rub the skin evenly with the butter. Truss the turkey as desired using kitchen twine. Let the turkey stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

Position a rack in the lower third of an oven and preheat to 400°F.

Roast the turkey for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 325ºF and continue roasting, basting every 30 minutes with the pan juices. If the breast begins to cook too quickly, tent it loosely with aluminum foil. After about 2 hours of total roasting time, begin testing for doneness by inserting an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the breast and thigh, away from the bone. The breast should register 165°F and the thigh, 175°F. Total roasting time should be 3 to 4 hours.

Transfer the turkey to a carving board, cover loosely with foil and let rest for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. Serves 12 to 14.

Williams-Sonoma Kitchen ©2009.

Good Gravy

One of my favorite Thanksgiving stories is all about the gravy, giblet gravy to be exact. Giblet gravy is a traditional topping for white rice in my family. I grew up enjoying this delicious southern specialty every Thanksgiving and Christmas Holiday. We never ladled our homemade gravy over mashed potatoes or stuffing; we reserved the giblet gravy for rice, and poured it over fluffy white rice. It isn’t a Thanksgiving feast or Christmas Day supper without the delicious duo. I do understand that giblet gravy may be odd to those who did not grow up eating it, and it may even prove to be mistaken for something it’s not. That takes me to my favorite Thanksgiving story from a local Aiken resident.

She was a young nurse, working in a small hospital in Kentucky far from home and family… all of the nursing staff pulled together to provide a Thanksgiving dinner for the nurses and doctors, who were on call. Dinner was a pot luck style buffet, which the staff ate in small groups while on a short dinner break.

When our gal took her dinner break, she ladled what looked like a clear broth into a soup bowl as did the nurse from Alabama. She sat down at the long table and waited for the rest of the nursing staff to fill their plates and be seated. Once all of the staff was seated, she tasted a spoonful of the rich broth. She found the soup far too rich to finish and was curious to see other nurses pouring the soup over stuffing and roasted turkey. They seemed amused to see her eating it with a spoon. She asked “What’s so funny?” One nurse from Kentucky informed her that “We don’t eat giblet gravy from a soup bowl; we put it on stuffing and turkey.” The response to this was “What do I know about giblet gravy, I’m from the North.” And, many years later our long-term Aiken resident points out with laughter, “What was the girl from Alabama doing eating the giblet gravy from a soup bowl? She was from the South and should have known what it was.”
As I see it, Thanksgiving should be about family traditions and welcoming everyone to the table, whether you eat giblet gravy on mashed potatoes, stuffing, or white rice.

Here is my family’s recipe for giblet gravy; this is from my great grandmother, Nanny. Enjoy!


Giblet Gravy

1 turkey neck
1 turkey liver and giblets
4½ cups water
1 boiled egg
2 tablespoons of turkey pan drippings
2 tablespoons of all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons of ice water
salt and pepper

Put the water in a saucepot and bring the water to boil. Add the turkey neck, liver, and giblets. Bring back up to a boil then reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer for 20 minutes. In a small jar add the flour and ice water and shake to incorporate. Add this flour mixture to a large cast iron skillet. Heat it with the pan drippings (from the cooked turkey) and add the water from the giblet saucepot one ladle at a time. Whisk this mixture until smooth gravy begins to take place. Continue to whisk to incorporate. Bring the gravy up to a boil and reduce the heat. Taste it to see if any salt is needed. Add salt and pepper at this time. Reduce the heat to a low simmer add the cooked yolk of the egg. Crush the cooked yolk and stir to incorporate it. You may remove the cooked giblets and liver from the saucepot and chop them up and add them to the gravy or you may choose to omit them from the gravy. I add them back to the gravy, unless my son is watching me.

Monday, November 14, 2011

Chicken Gate

My mother and one of her closest friends, host a luncheon each December for a dozen or so lovely ladies. They have been doing this for more years than I’m allowed to mention. It has been an elegant luncheon, with much attention given to every detail. The table setting and flowers carefully chosen; the food prepared with the greatest of care.

This past December the ladies gathered to enjoy their festive luncheon, all was going well with the ladies seated, when one mischievous guest shouted “Where’s the chicken?” She was referring to my mother’s chicken and rice dish.

Let’s not mince words here; my mother was mortified, as the laughter erupted. Maybe the chicken had been minced instead of cubed. It was there, but maybe too fine of a dice to compete with the rice.

The laughter encouraged the mischievous guest to tease a bit more, but quickly the ladies moved on to other topics and dessert of course. But to both of the hostesses this luncheon became known as Chicken Gate!

Here are three chicken recipes that can hold their own at any luncheon. These recipes will help any hostess avoid Chicken Gate. Two of the chicken recipes come from my favorite cookbook, Farm Journal’s Country Cookbook. I love this cookbook so much, that if disaster should strike, this is the book I would grab before running out of my home.


Regal Chicken Salad

4 cups diced cooked chicken
1 (1lb. 4 ½ oz.) can of pineapple chucks
2 cups seedless green grapes
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup coarsely chopped dry salted peanuts
Salt
¼ teaspoon tarragon leaves
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons of the pineapple juice

Combine the chicken, drained pineapple (reserve juice), grapes, celery and peanuts. Taste for salt and add a pinch of salt, if needed. The salted peanuts may add enough salt. Stir in the tarragon.

Combine mayonnaise, lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons of the pineapple juice. Serve on lettuce. This recipe will serve 8, but can be doubled with ease. This recipe was reprinted with the permission of the Farm Journal.

Alice’s Scalloped Chicken

Cook the chicken days in advance, discard bones and freeze the meat.
1 (5 to 6 lb.) stewing chicken
1cup chicken fat
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon of salt
¼ teaspoon of white pepper
4 ½ cup of chicken broth
2 cups of milk
4 cups of day-old bread, toasted and cubed
¼ cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped celery
1 teaspoon salt
½ to 1 teaspoon of rubbed sage
1/3 cup of melted butter

Simmer chicken in salted water (use the 1 tablespoon of salt for this) until tender. This should take about 3 hours. Remove chicken and take all of the meat of the bones.
To make the sauce: melt the fat in a heavy skillet; blend in flour, 1 teaspoon of salt and white pepper. Cook over low heat until bubbly, stirring constantly.

Slowly stir in the chicken broth and milk; boil 3 minutes, stirring constantly.
Lightly toss together the bread cubes, onion, sage, and butter. Arrange in two 2-quart baking dishes. Top with chicken and cover with sauce. Mix with fork to moisten the bread. Bake in oven for one hour preheated to 350 degrees.

This recipe was reprinted with the permission of the Farm Journal.


Cherry Blossom Chicken Salad

4 cups diced cooked chicken
2 cups dried tart cherries
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup toasted sliced almonds
Salt
¼ teaspoon fresh parsley
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice

Combine the chicken, cherries, celery and half of the almonds. Stir in the parsley.
Combine mayonnaise and lemon juice add to the chicken mixture. Add the salt and gently fold all of the ingredients together. Top with the remainder of the toasted sliced almonds. Garnish with fresh cherries, a sprig of parsley, and top with some of the toasted almonds.

Shrimp Trampy

When I moved to southern California, 16 years ago I went through a cultural adjustment. I found that the men here did not open the doors for ladies. The women dressed in a manner I found shocking, and the children addressed me by my first name as if we were the same age. In spite of all of the bumps in the road, I have settled in to a life that is different from my Southern upbringing.

A good example of shocking Californian behavior took place, recently, at an auto repair shop in Newport Beach. After 10 years of going to the same mechanic, I found myself in the market for a new one. I turned to the Internet to find one based on positive reviews. I was pleased to find one with over 40 glowing reviews, but found it a bit odd that all of the reviews were written, exclusively, by women.

I called the number and asked if he repaired brakes, and found that he did. He asked how I found his number and I told him about my Internet search. I asked him why he thought all of the reviews had been written by women, and he didn’t skip a beat when he told me, “It’s because I’m good looking.” He laughed and then said, “Naw, just kidding.” Followed by “No really I am.” I was silent. I thought it best to gloss over all of that and ask for a general estimate for a front-end brake replacement. The price he quoted was competitive so I made an appointment.

When I arrived at the auto shop, I knew he wasn’t kidding about being good looking; he was, and he had a long line of female customers to prove it. He was in his early twenties and looked like he could be a model for Calvin Kline. I left my car for brake service and walked to a coffee shop to wait.
When I returned a woman was standing at the counter chatting with the auto mechanic; at first glance she looked like his mother. I realized while I stood behind her that I was old enough to be his mother, and she was old enough to be my mother.

Their conversation took an uncomfortable turn, when she asked him if he liked shrimp in a breathy voice, like Ginger from Gilligan’s Island. I took a step back and looked at her. She was wearing very expensive clothing, and a 5-carat diamond ring. She was making dinner plans at her home with this young mechanic. Then to my astonishment, she asked what he would like for breakfast, again in vampy Ginger manner. I thought, only in Newport Beach does one encounter such shocking behavior at an auto repair shop. I couldn’t make any eye contact with him as I paid my bill.

As I drove home, I imagined what she would serve him for dinner and, later, breakfast. I think she served him Shrimp Trampy for dinner. It is a fast and easy recipe. The dessert that evening was a cereal bar treat with a big glass of milk. I am calling these, Cougar Crispies. The breakfast would be a version of French toast made with crushed frosted flakes. Tiger Toast seems to be a fitting name for this breakfast dish. I’m sure she made a big batch just in case he wanted seconds.

Shrimp Trampy
1 pound of raw shrimp, deveined, shells removed
4 tablespoons of good quality olive oil
1 tablespoon of salted butter
1 large sprig of fresh basil
¼ cup of sun dried tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 cup of feta cheese, crumbled
1 cup of cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
salt to taste
1 pound of angel hair pasta, cooked and tossed with a little olive oil
I would add 2 tablespoons of finely minced garlic to this, but I’d be eating dinner alone.

Put a pot of water on to boil for the pasta, but don’t add the angel hair pasta until after the Shrimp Trampy has been prepared. The angel hair pasta will cook very quickly so this should be prepared, last, right before you are ready to serve the dish.

To prepare the Shrimp Trampy, measure all of the ingredients and set them aside. Then heat a large skillet on medium heat; add the olive oil and butter. Do not let the butter turn brown, lower the temperature if necessary.

Add the peeled, deveined shrimp to the hot oil. Sauté the shrimp in the oil for 2 to 3 minutes. When the shrimp has turned pink, remove it from the oil and set it aside. Toss the chopped sun dried tomatoes into the oil; add a bit of salt to taste. Warm the sun dried tomatoes in the oil. Remove the skillet from the heat; transfer the shrimp to a large serving dish.

This is the point to put the pasta in the pot of hot water, which should be boiling at this point. I add a few tablespoons of olive oil to my water and a dash of salt.

Prepare the pasta according to manufacturer’s directions (the pasta will cook less than 8 - 10 minutes). Drain into a colander. Put the pasta into the skillet and toss the hot pasta with the oil and sun dried tomatoes. Top the pasta with the shrimp, feta, and basil. Add the slice cherry tomatoes and serve.

Cougar Crispies
The good thing about Cougar Crispies is that they can be prepared ahead of time, so one does not have to spend any additional time in the kitchen when one has a guest over for dinner.
8 cups of rice cereal
3 cups of chocolate rice cereal
½ cup of salted butter
1 bag of large marshmallows
¼ cup of smooth peanut butter

Prepare a cake pan by spraying the bottom of the pan and the sides with Pam. Spray a large wooden spoon with Pam before you get started. Spray the sides of the large pot you will be using on the stovetop.

Heat the butter over medium heat in the large pot and add the peanut butter, stir to incorporate. Add the marshmallows a handful at a time, keep them moving so they do not burn, stir with the wooden spoon.

You may need to turn down the heat at this point. Once all of the peanut butter and marshmallows are melted, remove the pot from the stove top and add the rice cereal, stirring the mixture. Move quickly here to get all of the cereal coated before the marshmallow mixture hardens.

Transfer to the prepared brownie pan. Spray your hands with a bit of the cooking spray, and gently press the mixture down into the pan. Allow to set and cool. Then cut with a knife into large squares. I am sure our friend in Newport Beach served her Cougar Crispies with a big cold glass of milk to her guest.

Tiger Toast
3 large eggs
4 tablespoons of milk
½ teaspoon of vanilla
¼ teaspoon of ground mace
3 cups of frosted flake cereal
8 slices of bread
½ a block of cream cheese
½ cup of hulled and slice fresh strawberries
vegetable oil to use to season the griddle

Wash and hull the strawberries. Slice the berries into thin slices. Set aside. Preheat a griddle pan to a medium high heat. Whisk together the raw eggs, milk, vanilla, and mace. Do not use a tablespoon of the mace; make certain you use ¼ of a teaspoon. Put this mixture in a bowl that is big enough to dip a slice of bread into with ease.

Crush the frosted flakes in a zip top plastic bag by running a rolling pin over them; pour the crushed frosted flake cereal on a plate. Spread one slice of bread with the cream cheese. Put sliced strawberries on top of the cream cheese and top the berries with another slice of bread.


Now it is time to dip the bread and get cooking. Dip the bread into the egg mixture and then press the egg-coated bread into the crushed flakes. Cook two at time so the griddle stays hot. Cook on one side for 2 minutes then flip and cook on the opposite side. Serve with warm berry syrup and seasonal berries. They’re grrreat that way.